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When curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. However, situated high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest place earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.